COSMETIC CHEMISTRY AND COSMECEUTICS
Academic year and teacher
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- Versione italiana
- Academic year
- 2018/2019
- Teacher
- SILVIA VERTUANI
- Credits
- 6
- Didactic period
- Secondo Semestre
- SSD
- CHIM/08
Training objectives
- This course is set up as the only required course of the entire degree program, aimed to the understanding of this specific area of ¿¿products in dermosmtico bought from a pharmacy, drugstore, or other distribution channels enabled. The skills of this course can then be possibly completed by electives free activated on this specific topic. The learning objectives of this course are aimed at knowledge of the market of cosmetic products, the overall knowledge of the cosmetic product from its composition to its quality, its functional requirements. Through the knowledge provided in this course, students acquire the ability to orient the audience in the choice of cosmetic products; ability to take responsibility and deductions from independent scientific try. The technical knowledge of the product to manage Reparato dermocosmetico with competence and professionalism, loyalty customers. Besides theoretical skills acquired during can help encourage students to continue their studies in this specific area, or to get involved in research in basic and applied to be held in the university, or at Enterprises during any internship thesis.
Prerequisites
- The student must have acquired and assimilated the following knowledge provided by the courses of General and Inorganic Chemistry Organic Chemistry, General physiology and human anatomy. Microbiology. Teaching takes reviewed the district of skin and subcutaneous as the application of cosmetic product, so knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of these sectors is necessary for the functionality of the product. The course deals with the chemistry of all major classes of cosmetic ingredients, present in the most common cosmetic forms. The understanding of its function and action is linked to the understanding of the chemical structure of belonging. Understanding a cosmetic label requires knowledge of the INCI nomenclature, similar in part to the IUPAC name of the ingredients, since it refers to 50 specific rules for names in the text of the law of 2006. Based on these assumptions in order to study and realize a profit this matter the skills acquired in the courses listed above is essential.
Course programme
- The course is divided into two parts.
1. COSMETIC CHEMISTRY (Total 36 hours) and 2. COSMECEUTICALS (Total 12 hours)
-Course introduction and products for topical use. (2 hours)
Presentation of the economic data for the year drawn up by Cosmetica Italia. The social and economic value of the cosmetic product. The various types of products for topical use sold in pharmacies: Definition of Pharmaceutical, Medical Device, Cosmetic.
- Cosmetic ingredients: functional and technological (2 hours)
The concept of functional ingredients and claim ingredients. Ingredient with physiological and/or technological function. Claim ingredients and the four Rs of Wiechers for an effective formulation
- Cosmetic legislation and INCI nomenclature rules (3 hours)
Labelling of a cosmetic product. Legislation From Directive 768/76 to European Regulation 1223/2009. Technical annexes. Animal testing
INCI nomenclature rules. The 50 rules of the INCI Nomenclature Convention, with particular reference to botanical, synthetic and biotechnological derivatives.
- Cosmetic forms (3 hours)
Classification of cosmetic forms on the criteria of area of application and residence time, number of phases and lipophilicity. Main monophase and biphasic forms.
- Lipochemistry (10 hours)
Introduction to the concept of emollience. Skin lipids. Chemical classification of lipids. Hydrocarbons: paraffinic Glyceric esters. Triglycerides, fatty acids. Vegetable oils. Main vegetable oils. Quantitative composition of the main fixed vegetable oils, technical data sheets and examination of some examples of certificates of analysis. Lipids PEG and PPG derivatives, chemical classification, function and nomenclature.
Introduction to the chemistry of silicones. Silicon, silanes, silicates, siloxanes. The main silicone raw materials used in cosmetics. Reading of INCI of cosmetic products containing the main ingredients.
Exercise reading INCI labels of oleolites on the market in the various distribution channels.
Sensory exercise on the main lipidic raw materials covered during the course (4 hours)
The student, through touch and visual, olfactory and sensorial evaluation of hydrocarbons, glyceric and non-glyceric esters, waxes, fixed vegetable oils and silicones, can consolidate the concepts illustrated from a theoretical point of view.
- Rheological additives. (3 hours)
Chemical classification and origin (synthetic, vegetable, marine) Sensory evaluation of various prototypes of hydrogels with different polymers to appreciate the different skin feeling.
- Preservatives (3 hours)
Illustration of Annex V. Conservation and chemical, physical and microbiological stability of cosmetic products. Chemical classification of preservatives. Organic acids. Alcohols and phenols, Thiazolinones. Formaldehyde shims, Parabens. Alternative preservatives to Annex V
Reading cosmetic product labels to highlight the main and most frequent preservative systems used.
- Surfactants and surfactants (3 hours)
The principles of cleansing. Classification of surfactants. Anionic: carboxylates, sulphates and sulphonates. Amphoteric. Non-ionic. Cationics and Conditioning Mechanism. Concept of SAL. Other ingredients: perlants, dyes. Dandruff-proof.
- O/A and A/O emulsions and emulsifiers (3 hours)
Classification of emulsions, and emulsifiers. Main differences between the two types and cosmetic function. Nods to the technological aspects for their preparation.
COSMECEUTICALS (12 hours in total divided as follows)
Definition of cosmeceutical (1 hour)
Kligman's three postulates.
- The evaluation of effectiveness (1 hour) in vitro and in vivo
- Functional cosmetics to combat skin aging and photoaging and oxidative hypothesis. (4 hours)
Antioxidants for topical use (vitamins A, C, E) and polyphenols.
-Sun products and UV filters (2 hours) Didactic methods
- The course plays through classroom lectures. The teacher in order to ensure the best understanding of the subject that would also require a practical part, makes use of media such as video subsidies that the teacher has itself produced to illustrate preparation in the laboratory of the main cosmetic forms. In addition to seeking the INCI nomenclature and the corresponding function of the ingredients, and the chemical structure of the database, so the teacher takes describes the student, who themselves will undertake a study indivuale through these subsidies.
Learning assessment procedures
- The exam is ORAL. The student can optionally present a project work on a cosmetic product of his/her choice, for which the student will have to describe the cosmetic form, recognize on the label the legislative requirements of the label, and describe for each ingredient the chemical class of belonging, the cosmetic function, and any other aspects discussed about safety and effectiveness. The project work can be presented in ppt, or in word, on computer or paper. The project work will be assigned a grade between 18 and 31. If the student chooses not to present a project worl, the teacher will propose a cosmetic product label to comment on.
In addition to the project work that may be discussed, the exam will be oriented to the evaluation of the topics carried out in the entire program of both cosmetic chemistry and cosmeceutical chemistry. Ten questions will be formulated. Knowledge of the INCI name of the main ingredients of each category is required. This second part will be assigned a vote between 18 and 31 that will be mediated by the vote of the project work. Reference texts
- AA.VV Il Manuale del Cosmetologo. Edizione Tecniche Nuove
AA.VV
Cosmeceuticals
Allured Publishing
Didactical material prepared by the teacher
Material provided by the teacher for the study of integration. Two handouts are available, entitled Notes on Cosmetic Legislation, and Functional and Cosmeceutical Ingredients, as well as all the course slides.
